Swatch’s Gamechanger

Posted April 26, 2013 by hiraman
Categories: Rs 2k to Rs 8k, Uncategorized

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Can you think of a swiss made mechanical  for 100 swiss francs? No. Swatch makes it possible with  Swatch Sistem51.

Swatch-Sistem51-2The decade-old brand  launched Swatch Sistem51 at the Baselworld 2013. It’s a fully automated assembly made mechanical movement composed of only 51 components, a 90 hour power reserve and a selling price of no more than 100 Swiss Francs. The movement is an automatic, but in place of the rotor,  it has a transparent disc rotating around a central screw. This allows users to see into the movement and all the intricate details of the 51 components. It offers the advantage of not having to wind the watch every day like an automatic and the ability to see the movement unblocked by a rotor such as in a hand wound watch.

It has 51 components compared to most mechanical watches which have double that number. It’s a great accomplishment indeed.

Interestingly, the material that the movement is made is called ARCAP, an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc with exceptional anti-magnetic qualities. The components are hermetically sealed within the case, preventing moisture of foreign objects from interfering within. The movement itself is 100% assembled by machines. The components are welded together to form an assembly centered around a single screw, and the advanced design of the escapement does away with the need for a regulator. The rate in fact is set in the manufacturing process by a laser, which means manual adjustments are totally unnecessary Top it all off  itcomes with a 90-hour power reserve. What more do you need in life?

Mobile Marvel

Posted December 6, 2011 by hiraman
Categories: Swiss Luxury Watch

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With a moving dial, Otturatore gives the illusion that the entire dial changes in the flash of an eye, writes Hiren Kumar Bose

De GRISOGONO has great hopes from Otturatore, a four faced watch with moving dial. Yes, you read it right. The brand feels the watch will demonstrate the Manufacture’s technical savoir faire and allow it to establish its legitimacy and credibility in the world of horology. That’s what DE GRISOGONO CEO Gerald Roden believes.

A timepiece which combines audacity, refinement and modernism, Otturatore’s mobile dial features a sequential display of seconds, date, moon phases and power reserve, with 3 of them always concealed. By a simple manipulation, the sequential mechanism can be displaced by 90° in a few tenths of a millisecond, a speed guaranteed to turn the world of complicated watches upside down. The over-engineered mechanism of the watch can be really amusing and will surely pull in the crowd, if the wearer wants to show off.

A square watch, 45mm wide and about 50mm tall, whether its chunky 18k rose or white gold case, the watch uses a lot of metal. And when the 16mm thick timepiece sits on your wrist, it’s like wearing a rod of gold bullion. But there are many who will be enchanted by the interesting mixture of classic watch style meets angular furniture design concept of the Otturatore.

The wow factor of the moving dial having registered initially, De GRISOGONO’s latest ensures comfort and legibility. There are pushers on the side of the case (similar to chronograph pushers), but they are used to move the dial window around. Under the dial are four complications, but you can only view one at a time.

The watch gives the illusion that the entire dial changes in the flash of an eye. A stealth watch!  In fact, a mechanism moves the dial window that is not powered by the push of your hand directly. The top pusher merely activates a special system that cycles the dial window. The watch has a second mainspring barrel aside from the one for the time. It is wound by “pumping” the lower pusher a number of times. When you then press the top pusher it activates the system that draws power from the second mainspring barrel to move the dial window over a new complication.

Residing in the watch is the novel De GRISOGONO automatic caliber DR 19-89, which features a subsidiary seconds dial, power reserve indicator, moonphase indicator, as well as date. The dial itself is textured and features nicely proportioned dauphine style hands that are in gold to match the case. The dial is available in a few colours as well including silver, ruthenium, black, and brown. Each of these colours is available with the rose of white gold case.

Patented by de GRISOGONO, the Otturatore’s basic feature is a mobile clockwise-rotated dial operated simply by pressing a mechanical pushpiece. The increment of rotation of such a device

depends on the number of complications or indications of the watch; the Ottaratore’s increment of rotation is 90°. While the principle seems simple enough, its design is totally unprecedented: it propels watchmaking technology from the sphere of slow speeds to that of hyper velocities. A true achievement, indeed.

Until now, horological complications focussed mainly on a specific function, usually a matter of actioning a simple sequence of gears or springs. The Otturatore truly embodies another dimension in time. A slight pressure on a pushpiece – whose travel is of the order of one millimeter – is enough to harness enough power to drive the mobile dial by 90° instantly. In a standard mechanical construction, a finger pressing a pushpiece for a brief instant exerts insufficient force to set in motion mechanical components with strong inertial resistance. The Otturatore’s sequential selector can achieve this because it can instantly action the various dynamic functions (controls, connecting and disconnecting operations, mechanical memory, gears and so forth) while taking into account power drain, inertia and friction.

The watch is symmetrical and initially a bit intimidating due to the massive pushers and crown but once it settles on the wrist you don’t notice its presence.

 

 

Hilton Trio

Posted October 15, 2011 by hiraman
Categories: Fashion Watches

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Paris Hilton Timepieces has launched three watches this season

princess

Princess- The Princess watch embodies a girly image and is designed to thrill, with 18 glamorous crystals that shine in the spotlight all along the dial & the unmistakable Paris Hilton P logo with a crown in a sparkling white crystal powder.  Available in silver, gold or rose gold.

hollywood

Hollywood- Large square watch by Paris is a perfect complement to any outfit. The dial features modern dialstopped with crystal powder adds that extra bit of glamour. Even the oversized crystal features a special diamond cut. The shiny leather strap differentiates itself with the Paris’ trademark P & deep embossed stars.  Every girl can be a star with the Hollywood watch. Available in a colour scheme of silver gold and black.

tinkerbell

Tinkerbell- A tribute to Paris’s Chihuahua Tinkerbell, Paris Hitlon watches presents its own super cute addition- the charm bracelet watch. A stylish chain bracelet in stainless steel with meaningful charms bordered by glamorous crystals.

Available at: Mumbai: Watches of Switzerland, Bandra, Shoppers Stop, Juhu Phoenix, Lower Parel

Rejoice F1 fans

Posted October 15, 2011 by hiraman
Categories: Available in India, Below Rs 2 lakhs, Men's Watch, Swiss Luxury Watch

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TAG Heuer launches two watches to coincide with Formula 1, one each for men and women

TAG Heuer is honouring its longstanding relationship with motor racing with its “Mastering Speed for 150 years” celebrations by launching a very special ‘India Racing Edition’ . This also coincides with the maiden year of Formula One launch in India and therefore, serves a perfect offering for both TAG Heuer and F1 fans.

TAG Heuer India Racing

The TAG Heuer Carrera Tachymeter Chronograph has been chosen for this special edition. This 200 pieces numbered limited edition has been adorned with the logo of ‘Mastering Speed for 150 Years’ with striking India colors – Saffron and Green. The presence of the car shaped logo on the dial adds to the thrill of TAG Heuer fans as well as car racing enthusiasts. The ‘Mastering Speed for 150 Years’ logo has been placed on the dial at 9 ’o clock as well as on the Sapphire Crystal case back. The chronograph hand along with the thread stitching on the leather strap is in India saffron colors, which provides a fresh, enthusiastic appeal and captures the soul of TAG Heuer, which is, innovation, prestige, performance and precision. Price Rs 1, 99,000

TAG Heuer F1 Lady Gold

For the new bride to be, TAG Heuer Formula 1 Lady Gold Ceramic combines the best of both worlds: gold-ceramic; reliable-chic; masculine-feminine. With accents of gold, it’s a truly unique timepiece. The bezel is an exquisite polished gold plated (18K 2N) & ceramic with 84 Wesselton diamonds and the bracelet plated in shimmering gold. The white diamond dial, with 11 to Wesselton diamonds and luminescent markers on polished gold plated minute and hour hands, add an extra edge to this one of a kind timepiece apt for her special day. Price Rs 1, 99,000

Forsey on his inventions

Posted September 30, 2011 by hiraman
Categories: Interview, Uncategorized

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It’s rare that you come across someone wearing watches worth Rs 4 crores. No, they’re not endowed with precious stones, but are exclusively handcrafted, hand-finished, limited number of pieces with several patented mechanisms. When we met up with Stephen Forsey of Greubel Forsey, the Swiss watchmaker extraordinaire, for a chat following the Watch World Awards 2011, held at Greater Noida-based Jaypee Greens Golf & Spa Resort, it was one such unique occasion.

Stephen Forsey

Recipient of the maiden individual Award for fine watch making as well as for the Limited Edition category, Forsey posed for the camera with a Double Tourbillon 30° and Invention Piece 2, both sitting snugly on his wrists.

Greubel Forsey, the Swiss watch making company which brought the skills and expertise of two exceptionally talented individuals to the world of horology in 2004, specialises in designing and manufacturing high-end watches based on the tourbillon mechanism, with only a few tens of units manufactured every year, which are expensively priced. Their latest, Invention Piece 2, features two double tourbillon 30°, making it a quadruple tourbillon.  Each double has one outer tourbillon that rotates at 1 cycle per four minutes, and one inner tourbillon, inclined at a 30° angle, that rotates once per minute. Available both in gold and titanium, it has 11 pieces each.

Double Tourbillon 30 degree

Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey met in the early 1990s at Renaud & Papi, and worked together for many years before launching their eponymous brand. And since then, the duo has not looked back, surprising the world with their eagerly awaited horological marvels which take years to develop and are lapped up by connoisseurs worldwide. In 2006 the Richmont Group bought 20 per cent stake in Greubel Forsey. Forsey speaks at length on the company’s inventions and what watch collectors can look forward to in an interview with Hiren Kumar Bose, Editor, Watch World 

On being the first recipient of an individual Watch World Award for special contribution to fine watch making

It’s very exciting for Greubel Forsey to be in India and to get this prestigious award from the biggest specialist magazine. The award is recognition of our timepieces and people at Greubel Forsey who put in months and years of hard work to make these watches. Awards like these help promote the best in watch making and creates awareness about the latest developments in the field. I’m very delighted to have received the award. Greubel Forsey is difficult to describe: for we are a very small company and can make only 100 timepieces in a year.

On bringing T back into tourbillon

When we go to bed we keep our wrist watches on the side table when it is at rest for nearly 12 years. This affects the performance of the watch. Our watches challenge the tourbillon possibilities and are an attempt to make them more precise. For instance, the Double Tourbillon 30° (DT30°) we presented in 2004 features one carriage which rotates once per minute and is inclined at 30°, inside another carriage which rotates every four minutes. The double tourbillon averages out errors on the balance induced by gravity. Or the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incliné (T24Si), presented in 2006, the tourbillon cage in this watch has a higher angular velocity, resulting in rapidly changing positions. It’s a challenge to put so many tourbillons and still keep the watch reasonably-sized and aesthetically pleasing.

On creating excitement with every creation

(Laughs).Both me and Robert Greubel have put in 25 years into watchmaking. Thanks to the Internet, independent watchmakers like us have been provided with a platform which is open 24/7and lets us interact with buyers and collectors worldwide. Interestingly, people who buy our watches are those who are very much into watches. They discover the intricacies of the watch each day.

Invention Piece 3

On why a Greubel Forsey watch takes years to become a reality

It takes several years to bring an idea through concept and prototype to a finished timepiece. There is a lot of investment that goes into each new mechanism. As these are not available off the shelf, they have to be designed. 98 per cent of our components in the movements, literally hundreds of parts, have to be designed in-house. Our timepieces have between 280 to 690 components in a movement. For instance our very first invention the Double Tourbillon 30°, the two caged, angled cage 30 degrees inside a second cage system took us four and a half years to go through the whole prototype stage to really refining the system. With a mechanical watch you need to have the time to test it, because a watch that works 24 hours a day, seven days a week, and means that you cannot accelerate the tool process. You just have to wait and be patient. Lastly, every watch needs to be hand-finished, which represents many hundreds of hours of work for each movement.

Published in Mint, Sept30, 2011

Only Watch Charity

Posted August 8, 2011 by hiraman
Categories: Swiss Luxury Watch

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Breguet’s  Réveil Musical for Only Watch 11

Breguet presents a unique creation, Réveil Musical, at the fourth edition of the world’s first luxury watch charity auction, Only Watch 2011, to be held on September 22, 2011 in the Principality of Monaco. The watch has a patented music box-type mechanism which enables this one-of-a-kind white gold Réveil Musical watch to play an equally unique tune, “Castle in the sky”, either on demand or at a pre-set time. The entirely original dial bearing a child’s hand completes a full rotation to touch the adult hand appearing on the flange.

Under the High Patronage of HSH Prince Albert II, 39 of the most prestigious and/or innovative Swiss watchmakers will auction a one-off model especially created for this unique event, to collect funds for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

The Only Watch 2011 collection will be showcased in Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing, Tokyo, Los Angeles, New York, Milan and Geneva from August 30 to September 17, 2011.

The tour will end in Monaco for a two-day exhibition (Sep. 21/22) at the Monaco Yacht Show, the world leading Superyacht show which co-organises Only Watch with the Monaco Association against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, and with Antiquorum Auctioneers who will also hold hammer.

Victorinox’s Vintage

Posted August 6, 2011 by hiraman
Categories: 30k to 50k, Available in India

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Victorinox’s Infantry Vintage Mechanical’s tone-on-tone colour block combination is an industry first.

The new Infantry Vintage Mechanical from Victorinox is trimmer in case size from its mechanical predecessors, in keeping with contemporary watch aesthetics. The look is simpler but refined: the tone-on-tone colour block combinations set it apart. The dial presentation has three bold hands and three circles of indicators – 24-hour military markers in the middle, oversized Arabic hours around them, and a 60-minute/second track with 5-second intervals at the dial periphery.

Every surface is satin-finished, with cut and polished angles subtly bringing a shimmering light to the outline. Generous volumes of luminescence – on the minute, hour hands and markers, greatly increase the watch’s night legibility. Anti-glare treatment on the sapphire crystal makes it equally easy to read in direct sunlight.

The standout case coating in an exclusive Black Ice PVD coating is a pollution-free and non-allergenic technology issued from the aeronautic industry. The warm and lustrous depth of the colour is underlined by its soft contrast with a brown dial and matching leather strap. The tone-on-tone color block combination available in black, beige, brown and indigo blue is an industry first.

The 3-hand, stainless steel case, leather strap is Rs. 50,000 approx while 3-hand, stainless steel case with Black Ice PVD treatment, leather strap is Rs. 55,000 approx.