Archive for the ‘Nautical Instrument’ category

Breguet’s Marine Chrono

January 5, 2011

Breguet’s Marine Chrono with Ruby Baguettes is a beauty with brains

breguet marine chrono

The Marine 5829 Haute Joaillerie Chronograph is sure to delight anyone wanting to time sports performances with exceptional brilliance. Adopting the main features of Breguet model 5827, its self-winding mechanical movement is housed in a case entirely set with baguette-cut diamonds. Exactly 186 precious stones enhance the case bezel, lugs, frame, pushpieces and crown.

The dial’s silvered gold and delicately engine-turned mother-of-pearl form a dazzling composition. The date is shown in a dial aperture at 6 o’clock while baguette-cut sapphires or diamonds enhance the white gold version’s 15-minute sectoral readout and baguette-cut rubies or diamonds on the rose gold one. Wave-patterned engine-turning and blued, facetted Breguet hands complete the dial’s rich visual effects.

Over and above the meticulous workmanship and vast expertise which designs like these call for, the precious stones are selected with extreme rigour. Not only must the gems be internally pure, they also have to match to perfection in terms of colour, size and cut as even minute differences might spoil the design’s overall harmony

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Diver’s Watch:Do’s and Don’ts

July 28, 2010

Wear a diver’s watch as a fashion accessory

Friends often ask me: what should one see when buying a diver’s watch. There are dozens of men’s diving watches on the market and it’s not easy knowing which one should go for. Before I go for the specifics let me explain what precisely a diver’s watch is.

omega diver's watch

It’s a sports watch produced for under sea diving. Its essential purposes are to log your time below the water and to assist you in a safe return to sea level with the help of decompression tables (if an analog watch). A watch built for diving must be capable of withstanding water pressure equivalent to at least 100 meters deep, be rugged enough to withstand the corrosive sea water and shrug off an accidental blow or two. An authentic diver’s watch must meet a series of standards defined in ISO 6425, a world-wide standard that grants conforming watch manufacturers permission to imprint the words DIVER’S on the watch. While a good diver’s watch may appear expensive but you need to know that it is an ultra-durable timepiece that has been put through a set of much more arduous tests than a standard sports watch. As they simply look terrific a diver’s watch can easily be worn as a fashion accessory when not used as an essential diving instrument.

Things to see in a diver’s watch

  • Water & Corrosion Resistive Watch Case
  • Rotating Bezel (Elapsed Time Controller)
  • Crystal Case: Due to the elevated force incurred underwater, diver’s  watches tend to sport an ultra-thick crystal dial window made of materials like synthetic sapphire, acrylic glass and hardened glass, each with their own set of advantages and disadvantages.
  • Crown: The crown must be unscrewed in order to correct or reset the date or time and screwed back into the water resistance.
  • Helium Release Valve: Diving below 1000 meters is known as “saturation diving” or “technical diving” which are done in chamber with helium rich environment.  A problem encountered in ultra-deep saturation dives is pressure build-up caused by helium getting into the watch. Without a proper venting mechanism, the crystal dial cases would often shoot off due to the pressure buildup of helium within the interior. Manufacturers of saturation dive watches compensated for this by installing release valves to expel the excess internal gas.
  • Bracelet: Most diving watches have rubber, silicone or polyurethane strap or a metal watch bracelet with excess length to permit wearing the watch over the sleeve of a diving suit.
  • Readability: Dive watches must be legible in the low light environment experienced deep below the sea surface.
  • Power Reserve Indicator: If a dive watch is powered by a battery, ISO 6425 requires that it exhibit an End of Life (EOL) indicator to warn of low energy reserve. This is usually handled with a two or four second skipping of the second hand or a cautionary message on a digital watch.

Corum’s Admiral Cup Tourbillon

March 9, 2010

Briefly: Admiral’s Cup Minute Repeater Tourbillon 45 to be unveiled at Basel World 2010

admiral cup tourbillon

To celebrate Admiral Cup’s fiftieth anniversary, Corum has chosen to associate to this eminently sporty watch with two of the most prestigious horological complications: the Tourbillon and the minute repeater.

The use of a minute repeater in a watch with marine connotation is not a common feature, however this complication concentrates the strength of two universes, as life on a boat is governed by night and day with ringing bells. From ‘action stations’ in the morning to the evening ring, and even during attention to colours, it is a sailor’s life that is punctuated by these ringing tones.

The model sports the CO 010 caliber. The development and adjustment of this exceptional movement took two entire years for which Corum required the participation of a dozen of its best watch-making craftsmen. Each of the components were conceived and developed to guarantee the precision and beauty of the tone by considering its ‘power’ (expressed in decibels), its ‘precision’ (note correctness), its richness (expressed in number of partials) and its  ‘reverberation’ (duration of each note). The minutes-rack, placed at the heart of the ringing mechanism, is inverted compared to traditional minute repeaters in order to bring strength and precision to each note. It has also been enlarged to permit a wider lift angle to each tooth, extending the time between notes. The racks hitting the gongs are made out of ultra resistant and hardened steel. Fixed to these racks, countersprings have been specially conceived to find the best balance of the hitting strength and speed.

During the ringing, the rhythm is regulated through the rotation of an inertial flywheel, visible on the movement’s back. The gongs, made from an alloy featuring a composition and thermal treatment that are a closely guarded secret, have been adjusted to strike the hours on an A note and the minutes on a C sharp note. These two notes have not been chosen randomly, their specific sequence forms a major third (two tones) with a more cheerful harmony than a minor third (one and a half tones). The precision of the whole mechanism is guaranteed through a Tourbillon with Silicium escapement and pallets offering reliability and durability.

IWC’s Yacht Club Chrono

February 18, 2010

portuguese yacht club chrono

Tags: IWC’s Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph

Unveiled at SIHH (Salon International Haute Horologerie) 2010, Geneva the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph is an elegant sports watch which also is a nautical precision instrument A reliable timepiece whose functionality is beyond reproach and in which every detail, however minor, has been optimized, the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph from IWC is water-resistant to 6 bar and is equipped with a screw-in crown and a crown protection. Its chronograph permits the recording of aggregate times of up to 12 hours on the common counter for the minutes and hours and can be reset to zero via the fly back function at any time while running, so that it is instantly ready to start measuring a new time. There are many ways of measuring longstop times. Yet none are as convenient and unambiguous as those provided by the analogue display of the 89360 calibre: these can be read like a normal time display. In addition, the movement with its integral chronograph is designed in such a way that the measurement of even long stop times does not lead to fluctuations in amplitude and associated inaccuracy. The signal red centre stopwatch hand in effect also plays a central role. Together with the supplementary flange for seconds and fractions of a second, it allows extremely accurate short-interval timing. In terms of functionality, the dial appeals with its clear railway track-style chapter ring and – for the first time in the Portuguese family – with luminescent indices and hands. It also incorporates date and small seconds displays.

In spite of its sporting characteristics, the new Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph represents a Portuguese that is true to type with its consummately neat dial and Arabic numerals. The Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph is available in three variants: in steel with a silver-plated dial, rhodium-plated luminescent hands and appliqués. Again in steel with a black dial, silver-plated flange and rhodium- plated hands and appliqués, also luminescent. The most refined model in 18 carat red gold has an slate-coloured dial with a sun pattern ground finish, subtly contrasted by the black small seconds display circle and the black ring for the aggregate minutes of the chronograph. Gold-plated hands and solid red gold appliqués distinguish this model additionally. All three variants are worn on a black rubber strap with a folding clasp.

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