Archive for the ‘Swiss Luxury Watch’ category

Mobile Marvel

December 6, 2011

With a moving dial, Otturatore gives the illusion that the entire dial changes in the flash of an eye, writes Hiren Kumar Bose

De GRISOGONO has great hopes from Otturatore, a four faced watch with moving dial. Yes, you read it right. The brand feels the watch will demonstrate the Manufacture’s technical savoir faire and allow it to establish its legitimacy and credibility in the world of horology. That’s what DE GRISOGONO CEO Gerald Roden believes.

A timepiece which combines audacity, refinement and modernism, Otturatore’s mobile dial features a sequential display of seconds, date, moon phases and power reserve, with 3 of them always concealed. By a simple manipulation, the sequential mechanism can be displaced by 90° in a few tenths of a millisecond, a speed guaranteed to turn the world of complicated watches upside down. The over-engineered mechanism of the watch can be really amusing and will surely pull in the crowd, if the wearer wants to show off.

A square watch, 45mm wide and about 50mm tall, whether its chunky 18k rose or white gold case, the watch uses a lot of metal. And when the 16mm thick timepiece sits on your wrist, it’s like wearing a rod of gold bullion. But there are many who will be enchanted by the interesting mixture of classic watch style meets angular furniture design concept of the Otturatore.

The wow factor of the moving dial having registered initially, De GRISOGONO’s latest ensures comfort and legibility. There are pushers on the side of the case (similar to chronograph pushers), but they are used to move the dial window around. Under the dial are four complications, but you can only view one at a time.

The watch gives the illusion that the entire dial changes in the flash of an eye. A stealth watch!  In fact, a mechanism moves the dial window that is not powered by the push of your hand directly. The top pusher merely activates a special system that cycles the dial window. The watch has a second mainspring barrel aside from the one for the time. It is wound by “pumping” the lower pusher a number of times. When you then press the top pusher it activates the system that draws power from the second mainspring barrel to move the dial window over a new complication.

Residing in the watch is the novel De GRISOGONO automatic caliber DR 19-89, which features a subsidiary seconds dial, power reserve indicator, moonphase indicator, as well as date. The dial itself is textured and features nicely proportioned dauphine style hands that are in gold to match the case. The dial is available in a few colours as well including silver, ruthenium, black, and brown. Each of these colours is available with the rose of white gold case.

Patented by de GRISOGONO, the Otturatore’s basic feature is a mobile clockwise-rotated dial operated simply by pressing a mechanical pushpiece. The increment of rotation of such a device

depends on the number of complications or indications of the watch; the Ottaratore’s increment of rotation is 90°. While the principle seems simple enough, its design is totally unprecedented: it propels watchmaking technology from the sphere of slow speeds to that of hyper velocities. A true achievement, indeed.

Until now, horological complications focussed mainly on a specific function, usually a matter of actioning a simple sequence of gears or springs. The Otturatore truly embodies another dimension in time. A slight pressure on a pushpiece – whose travel is of the order of one millimeter – is enough to harness enough power to drive the mobile dial by 90° instantly. In a standard mechanical construction, a finger pressing a pushpiece for a brief instant exerts insufficient force to set in motion mechanical components with strong inertial resistance. The Otturatore’s sequential selector can achieve this because it can instantly action the various dynamic functions (controls, connecting and disconnecting operations, mechanical memory, gears and so forth) while taking into account power drain, inertia and friction.

The watch is symmetrical and initially a bit intimidating due to the massive pushers and crown but once it settles on the wrist you don’t notice its presence.

 

 

Rejoice F1 fans

October 15, 2011

TAG Heuer launches two watches to coincide with Formula 1, one each for men and women

TAG Heuer is honouring its longstanding relationship with motor racing with its “Mastering Speed for 150 years” celebrations by launching a very special ‘India Racing Edition’ . This also coincides with the maiden year of Formula One launch in India and therefore, serves a perfect offering for both TAG Heuer and F1 fans.

TAG Heuer India Racing

The TAG Heuer Carrera Tachymeter Chronograph has been chosen for this special edition. This 200 pieces numbered limited edition has been adorned with the logo of ‘Mastering Speed for 150 Years’ with striking India colors – Saffron and Green. The presence of the car shaped logo on the dial adds to the thrill of TAG Heuer fans as well as car racing enthusiasts. The ‘Mastering Speed for 150 Years’ logo has been placed on the dial at 9 ’o clock as well as on the Sapphire Crystal case back. The chronograph hand along with the thread stitching on the leather strap is in India saffron colors, which provides a fresh, enthusiastic appeal and captures the soul of TAG Heuer, which is, innovation, prestige, performance and precision. Price Rs 1, 99,000

TAG Heuer F1 Lady Gold

For the new bride to be, TAG Heuer Formula 1 Lady Gold Ceramic combines the best of both worlds: gold-ceramic; reliable-chic; masculine-feminine. With accents of gold, it’s a truly unique timepiece. The bezel is an exquisite polished gold plated (18K 2N) & ceramic with 84 Wesselton diamonds and the bracelet plated in shimmering gold. The white diamond dial, with 11 to Wesselton diamonds and luminescent markers on polished gold plated minute and hour hands, add an extra edge to this one of a kind timepiece apt for her special day. Price Rs 1, 99,000

Forsey on his inventions

September 30, 2011

It’s rare that you come across someone wearing watches worth Rs 4 crores. No, they’re not endowed with precious stones, but are exclusively handcrafted, hand-finished, limited number of pieces with several patented mechanisms. When we met up with Stephen Forsey of Greubel Forsey, the Swiss watchmaker extraordinaire, for a chat following the Watch World Awards 2011, held at Greater Noida-based Jaypee Greens Golf & Spa Resort, it was one such unique occasion.

Stephen Forsey

Recipient of the maiden individual Award for fine watch making as well as for the Limited Edition category, Forsey posed for the camera with a Double Tourbillon 30° and Invention Piece 2, both sitting snugly on his wrists.

Greubel Forsey, the Swiss watch making company which brought the skills and expertise of two exceptionally talented individuals to the world of horology in 2004, specialises in designing and manufacturing high-end watches based on the tourbillon mechanism, with only a few tens of units manufactured every year, which are expensively priced. Their latest, Invention Piece 2, features two double tourbillon 30°, making it a quadruple tourbillon.  Each double has one outer tourbillon that rotates at 1 cycle per four minutes, and one inner tourbillon, inclined at a 30° angle, that rotates once per minute. Available both in gold and titanium, it has 11 pieces each.

Double Tourbillon 30 degree

Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey met in the early 1990s at Renaud & Papi, and worked together for many years before launching their eponymous brand. And since then, the duo has not looked back, surprising the world with their eagerly awaited horological marvels which take years to develop and are lapped up by connoisseurs worldwide. In 2006 the Richmont Group bought 20 per cent stake in Greubel Forsey. Forsey speaks at length on the company’s inventions and what watch collectors can look forward to in an interview with Hiren Kumar Bose, Editor, Watch World 

On being the first recipient of an individual Watch World Award for special contribution to fine watch making

It’s very exciting for Greubel Forsey to be in India and to get this prestigious award from the biggest specialist magazine. The award is recognition of our timepieces and people at Greubel Forsey who put in months and years of hard work to make these watches. Awards like these help promote the best in watch making and creates awareness about the latest developments in the field. I’m very delighted to have received the award. Greubel Forsey is difficult to describe: for we are a very small company and can make only 100 timepieces in a year.

On bringing T back into tourbillon

When we go to bed we keep our wrist watches on the side table when it is at rest for nearly 12 years. This affects the performance of the watch. Our watches challenge the tourbillon possibilities and are an attempt to make them more precise. For instance, the Double Tourbillon 30° (DT30°) we presented in 2004 features one carriage which rotates once per minute and is inclined at 30°, inside another carriage which rotates every four minutes. The double tourbillon averages out errors on the balance induced by gravity. Or the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incliné (T24Si), presented in 2006, the tourbillon cage in this watch has a higher angular velocity, resulting in rapidly changing positions. It’s a challenge to put so many tourbillons and still keep the watch reasonably-sized and aesthetically pleasing.

On creating excitement with every creation

(Laughs).Both me and Robert Greubel have put in 25 years into watchmaking. Thanks to the Internet, independent watchmakers like us have been provided with a platform which is open 24/7and lets us interact with buyers and collectors worldwide. Interestingly, people who buy our watches are those who are very much into watches. They discover the intricacies of the watch each day.

Invention Piece 3

On why a Greubel Forsey watch takes years to become a reality

It takes several years to bring an idea through concept and prototype to a finished timepiece. There is a lot of investment that goes into each new mechanism. As these are not available off the shelf, they have to be designed. 98 per cent of our components in the movements, literally hundreds of parts, have to be designed in-house. Our timepieces have between 280 to 690 components in a movement. For instance our very first invention the Double Tourbillon 30°, the two caged, angled cage 30 degrees inside a second cage system took us four and a half years to go through the whole prototype stage to really refining the system. With a mechanical watch you need to have the time to test it, because a watch that works 24 hours a day, seven days a week, and means that you cannot accelerate the tool process. You just have to wait and be patient. Lastly, every watch needs to be hand-finished, which represents many hundreds of hours of work for each movement.

Published in Mint, Sept30, 2011

Only Watch Charity

August 8, 2011

Breguet’s  Réveil Musical for Only Watch 11

Breguet presents a unique creation, Réveil Musical, at the fourth edition of the world’s first luxury watch charity auction, Only Watch 2011, to be held on September 22, 2011 in the Principality of Monaco. The watch has a patented music box-type mechanism which enables this one-of-a-kind white gold Réveil Musical watch to play an equally unique tune, “Castle in the sky”, either on demand or at a pre-set time. The entirely original dial bearing a child’s hand completes a full rotation to touch the adult hand appearing on the flange.

Under the High Patronage of HSH Prince Albert II, 39 of the most prestigious and/or innovative Swiss watchmakers will auction a one-off model especially created for this unique event, to collect funds for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

The Only Watch 2011 collection will be showcased in Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing, Tokyo, Los Angeles, New York, Milan and Geneva from August 30 to September 17, 2011.

The tour will end in Monaco for a two-day exhibition (Sep. 21/22) at the Monaco Yacht Show, the world leading Superyacht show which co-organises Only Watch with the Monaco Association against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, and with Antiquorum Auctioneers who will also hold hammer.

Black Forever

June 15, 2011

de Grisogono’s quartet in black and limited edition

Meccanico dG N09:The watch in titanium with a matt black PVD coating has handwinding mechanical movement, exclusive to de GRISOGONO. It has analogue display of hours and minutes with white dauphine hands. At bottom, it has mechanical digital second timezone displayed by white mobile microsegments. It comes with power reserve indicator and has sapphire glass front and case back. Water-resistant up to 30mts, it has only 10 pieces. Price on request.

” Occhio Ripetizione Minuti” So:The 18K gold watch with a matt black PVD coating is set with 167 black diamonds (1.9 carats). It has black matt twelve-blade titanium diaphragm dial with Arabic numerals in silvered script, dauphine hands in 18K white gold. Hour, quarter and minute repeater strike on three gongs (cathedral strike) with opening of the diaphragm. Water-resistant up to 30mts it is available in limited edition of five. Price on request.

Instrumentino S34 QZ : The 18K gold watch with a matt black PVD coating set with 405 black diamonds (6.9 carats). It has quartz movement with dual time.  The black guilloché dial is set with 312 black diamonds (1.10 carat).  Water-resistant up to 30mts it is available in limited edition of 10 pieces. Price on request.

Instrumento N°Uno DF S41:The 18K gold watch with a matt black PVD coating is set with 184 black diamonds (2.2 carats). The automatic movement  dual time and and date watch with black guilloché dial is set with 147 black diamonds (0.50 carat). It has grey Arabic numerals, grey dauphine-style hands and has crown set with a black diamond (0.10 carat). It is water-resistant up to 30mts. Price on request.

Nadal’s Wristwear

May 10, 2011

The Richard Mille watch Rafael Nadal wears weighs just 20gms

Richard Mille Rafael Nadal

Just a few days back Rafael Nadal defeated David Ferrer and became the first ever tennis player to win two separate tournaments 6 or more times. At only 24, he has already won nine Grand Slams. No, this post is not on Nadal but what he wore on his wrist that day.  He was wearing a Richard Mille when he won the Barcelona Open. For he is the official ambassador of Richard Mille and was wearing RM027, one of the world’s lightest mechanical tourbillon wrist watches, weighing just 20 grams. It is especially designed for Nadal to allow him total freedom of movement on the tennis court.

Now, the company has launched its new model RM 035, also known as the Rafael Nadal Chronofiable watch. The watch is the first manual winding movement in the Richard Mille collection to have Chronofiable certification.
Chronofiable is an accelerated ageing test that stimulates normal wearing conditions with an intensity factor of about 8. This way, the reliability rate of a watch product is precisely evaluated and only the most resistant watches that survive various shocks, angular accelerations and thermal conditions, can get certification. Today the Chronofiable procedure is an essential step on the path to approval and qualification of the products of many manufacturers.
The RM 035 is made upon the same principles as RTM 027 Tourbillon. This is another super lightweight watch, with a movement weighing just 4,3 grams. The unusual and fully skeletonized core is treated with black PVD, relying on the caliber RMUL1, with 24 jewels and beating at 4Hz. The tonneau shaped case is signature Richard Mille, and is made of an ultra-light magnesium-aluminum alloy. This alloy is composed of 90% magnesium and 8.9% aluminium and helps keep the new RM 035 under 20 grams (including strap).

TAG watch on India F1

May 9, 2011

TAG  Heuer India’s Formula One Watch only 200 pieces

SRK launches F1 Watch

TAG Heuer, the worldwide leader in sports watches and chronographs, has tied up with the Buddh International Circuit, the venue of the first Formula One race in India.  With this TAG Heuer will gain exclusive rights in the watch category which grants it access to the branding, logo and image rights of the race track. Buddh International Circuit will see the launch of the first ever F1 in India on 30th October 2011. F1 racing’s governing body, the FIA has tentatively indicated the inclusion of the Indian Grand Prix for October 2011, subject to homologation of the circuit.

Announcing the tie-up, Shah Rukh Khan, TAG Heuer Brand Ambassador, said, “I am very excited to be a part of the brand’s celebration of its motor racing heritage. We hope to bring a lot of motor racing excitement to TAG Heuer customers through this very special watch as well as other exciting events to follow during the course of the year. The 5.14km long Buddh International Circuit has been designed by world renowned German architect and racetrack designer, Herman Tilke, who has also designed other world class race circuits in Malaysia, Bahrain, China, Turkey, Indonesia, the UAE, South Africa, South Korea and the US. It has been designed as one of the fastest, most exciting motor racing circuits in the world. The track’s combination of 16 corners, high- speed straights and dramatic changes in elevation have been designed to provide ample opportunities for overtaking, which is what makes motor racing exciting.

tag heuer Carrera F1 India

To commemorate the tie up, TAG Heuer has announced the launch of 200 pieces “India limited edition” watch. This numbered limited edition has been adorned with the logo of the racing circuit in striking India colors – Orange and Green. The presence of the circuit map on the dial adds to the thrill of the TAG Heuer fans as well as car racing lovers. The Buddh International Circuit logo and map have been placed on the dial at 9 ’o clock and the chronograph hand along with the thread stitching on the leather strap is in India saffron colors. It provides a fresh, enthusiastic appeal and captures the soul of TAG Heuer which is innovation, prestige, performance and precision.

The TAG Heuer Carrera Tachymeter Chronograph has been chosen for this very special Limited Edition of 200 watches. The 200 piece limited edition will be available for sale in September end this year. TAG Heuer will soon initiate a booking procedure for the limited edition watches.