Archive for the ‘Mechanical watches’ category

Pastore for Concord

June 17, 2010

Tweet: Argentinean Javier Pastore for Concord

javier pastore

After Leo Messi for Audemars Piguet  it’s Argentinean Javier Pastore who will sport Concord C1 chronograph at the 2010 FIFA World Cup. Pastore, a very young professional football talent from Argentina currently plays with the Italian Serie A club Palermo. He will play in the Argentina national team during the 2010 FIFA World Cup in South Africa.

Born in Córdoba, Argentina in 1989, Javier developed his particular playing style at a young age. His professional youth career started in Talleres, the team he was always fan of. In 2008, he joined the first league Argentina team Huracán, but it was in 2009  when he joined the Italian team Palermo that his international career really began. Following a string of good performances in his first season at Italian Serie A level, Argentina head coach Diego Maradona decided to call up Pastore for national squad duty.

Just before leaving for South Africa, Pastore paid a visit to the Concord official retailer Joyería Danfer in Buenos Aires, where he was presented with the latest models of the C1 Collection. After hesitating between various models, his choice finally rested on the stainless steel and white rubber chronograph, C1 Pure.

This C1 Chronograph is presented in a 44 mm stainless steel case made of 53 elements, standing 16.70 mm tall. A metal protective ring coated in white rubber and fixed laterally by 7 self7blocking screws is enhanced by eight decorative elements straddling the bezel. These bastions protect a spectacular 3.30 mm thick sapphire crystal, which literally emerges from the case and displays a 37-layer white fibreglass like dial with its distinctive Concord seconds disk. This mechanical timepiece, holds a self-winding Valgranges movement with a 487 hour power reserve, is certified by the official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). It is presented on a white rubber strap with folding clasp and is water resistant to a pressure of 20 ATM.

Breguet’s Silicon Quest

April 1, 2010

Briefly: The silicon balance spring in Breguet Tradition 7047, unveiled at Basel World 2010 is technologically superior and is more precise, thanks to silicon being totally impervious to magnetic fields

breguet tradition 7047

Balance spring is the most responsive in terms of improvements to timekeeping precision and its performance crucial to the workings of mechanical watch movement. One of a series of vital parts at the heart of the movement, its regular oscillations gives the movement its rhythm and helps regulate the flow of time.

Anthony Louis Breguet conceived the “Breguet overcoil” spring in the year 1795. Two hundred years later it still is the reference in terms of balance spring. A.-L. Breguet got the idea of altering the balance spring’s terminal curve by raising its end and bending it slightly as a way of improving its isochronism. Another Breguet, Louis-Clement, in 1830 sought to prevail over magnetic fields by crafting balance springs in glass instead of metal. Breguet himself had made balance springs in gold to counter oxidation. One such cylindrical spring was fitted in the celebrated Marie-Antoinette watch; its shape was designed to improve considerably its isochronism by repoising its centre of gravity.

Over the years and so much progress in the art and science of horology watchmakers still cribbed about precision. But with arrival of silicon balance spring, courtesy Breguet in its Breguet Tradition 7047 model launched at Basel World 2010.

The balance spring is a very fine coil spring. Usually made of metal, it is vulnerable to shocks, magnetic fields and even the pull of gravity, which can cause warping.

Today, the new Breguet silicon balance spring is featured in the Breguet Tradition 7047 model with tourbillon and fusee-and-chain transmission. Inspired by the design of the first tourbillon-equipped pocket watches devised by Breguet, a platinum version is now available fitted with a movement fashioned in an anthracite-toned metal alloy.

What are the advantages of  a silicon balance spring?

  • Technologically superior
  • Needs less oil
  • Is more precise
  • Totally impervious to magnetic fields
  • Yields to a broad variety of shapes
  • Is lighter than metal and thus less prone to deformation
  • As components fashioned from silicon are subjected to a special process it greatly improves their resistance to handling and shocks

de Grisogono duo

March 25, 2010

Briefly : de Grisogono’s Fuso and Meccanico are two extraordinary watches priced at Rs 2 cr plus

Two dials, two timezones

fuso

Frequent travellers and everyone who regularly juggle timezones will surely be taken in by the latest de Grisogono collection, Fuso Quadrato (47mm) which features a totally original display of the second timezone function. A diaphragm mechanism hides or reveals it at will with its pair of distinct but equally handsome dials. The diaphragm’s 12 titanium blades can be either open to reveal the second timezone dial or closed to display only the local time in hours and minutes. At the heart of the watch a self-winding mechanical movement beats at 28,800 v.p.h. and provides a 42-hour power reserve. While the hours and minutes of local time are shown by a pair of centre-positioned hands, the second timezone is indicated on a 12 hour dial by a black frame hand.

The black upper dial’s centre area is satin-finished while its outer zone is fine-grain sandblasted. The de Grisogono-designed hour markers and applied numerals match the case metal color, as does the lower dial, featuring clou de Paris cobbled finish and a chapter inscribed with hour markers and Roman numerals.

Fashioned in 18K pink gold or white gold, its square silhouette’s sensual rounded lines are delicately arched outward in the 6-to-12 axis to hug the wrist closely, aided by the mobility of the strap lugs. The sapphire crystal itself is curved in harmony with the case profile. Water-resistant to 100 feet), the watch comes with a genuine alligator strap fitted with a triple deployment clasp color-matched to the case. Price: Fuso No1 (Pink Gold) Rs at 23,44,000 and Fuso No 2  (White Gold) is for Rs 24,97,000.

Marriage of  the best

meccanico

Designed to display the time in two time zones, de Grisogono’s Meccanico dG’s ranks as the world’s first watch with a mechanical digital display as well as an analogue face. A single mechanical movement, two time zones, two types of display: the Meccanico dG breaks truly new ground; for the first time in watchmaking history, a digital display and mechanical power come together successfully.

A proprietary de Grisogono calibre, its hand-wound movement comprises 651 components. It offers an analogue display of the hours and minutes on the upper  dial and the digital display of a second time zone on the lower section. The latter features the tens of hours, the hours, the tens of minutes and the minutes. The mechanism is activated via movable micro-segments driven by a set of 23 cams combined with gears plus a triggering and synchronization device.

Meccanico dG  has a power reserve of some 35 hours. The latter is displayed by a hand in a 90° sector on the back of the movement and is visible through a shaped crystal caseback giving a glimpse of the brand’s famous emblematic scrolls. The Meccanico dG is water-resistant to 30 metres and comes in a choice of pink gold, titanium, titanium and rubber, titanium and pink gold or titanium and platinum. A crown at 3 o’clock controls the analogue time display. Two correctors serve to reset the second time zone; the left-hand one controls the hours, the right-hand one the tens of minutes and minutes. The strap is in natural vulcanised rubber and features a deployment clasp adorned with the de Grisogono emblem. The Meccanico dG is being fashioned in a limited edition of 177 watches. Price : Meccanico N06 (Pink gold and Rubber) Rs. 2,11,50,000, Meccanico N03 (Titanium and Platinum) Rs 2,05,63,000 and Meccanico N02 (Titanium and Rubber) Rs 2,00,00,000.

Available at de Grisogono Flagship Boutique, Boutique N211, Upper Grnd. Flr., DLF Emporio, Nelson Mandela Rd., New Delhi 110070. Ph. 91 11 4609 8271.

Hublot’s bouquet

March 9, 2010

Briefly: Hublot to launch its King Power Alinghi (48mm), Big Bang In Red and Steel Tutti Frutti Rose at Basel World 2010

King Power Alinghi

king power alinghi

King Power Alinghi (48mm) in microblasted black ceramic and moulded black rubber comes in 6 relief black PVD H-shaped titanium screws. It has crystal Sapphire with interior/exterior anti-reflective treatment. The Alinghi logo is at 9 o’clock. The hands are satin-finished microblasted black nickel with black SuperLuminova™. The mechanical skeleton chronograph is endowed with automatic winding, carbon bridges and possesses calibre Hublot HUB4400. The model is in limited of 333 pieces numbered from 01/333 to 333/333.

Big Bang In Red

hublot red

A crimson dial (38mm) decorated with a diamond bezel, a white ceramic case and an alligator leather and rubber strap. A gift that says more than any poem, a dress watch that proclaims love better than any words! A quartz movement watch, its hands are Rhodium faceted, diamond-set with white luminous markings.

Big Bang Steel Tutti Frutti Rose

The new Big Bang Tutti Frutti (48mm) features fine mother of pearl, which gives it a particular elegance. This is emphasised by its satin-finished case surrounded by pink sapphires, and the alligator bracelet that accentuates its distinguished allure.

hublot tutti fruti

An undeniably exquisite watch, it exudes a sense of masterful restraint. The hands are faceted, diamond-set, luminescent white, seconds hand with H-shaped counter weights This mechanical chronograph watch comes with automatic winding and Hublot Calibre HUB4300.

Mechanical watches: How, what & why

March 8, 2010

Briefly: Mechanical watches are work of art and science

mechanical watch

A mechanical watch keeps time using the energy from a wound spring, and keeps time through the highly regulated release of that energy through a set of gears (the wheel train) and an escapement. It differs from the typical quartz watch in that it uses purely mechanical components to keep time. Mechanical watches typically can run for about 40 hours on one full winding of the mainspring, with a few designs available with up to 8 days, or even 10 days, of power reserve.

The basic design of mechanical watches has not changed very much in the past fifty years. What has changed is the use of high technology and modern materials in the design and manufacture of watches. Even with the fusion of CAD/CAM, electrospark erosion in the manufacturing, and titanium nitride cases; the pinnacle of watchmaking is still an expression of elegance of design, attention-to-detail in finishing and assembly, and the art of hand-tweaking movements for optimum performance.

A mechanical watch is an anachronism, it is the ultimate refinement of “low” technology; collectively they are an obsession shared by the enthusiasts. Yes, a quartz watch is cheaper and more accurate than a mechanical watch. A good mechanical watch can typically be made no more accurate than 2-3 seconds per day. Your typical inexpensive quartz is usually good to 0.5 seconds per day or better.  But mechanical watches are not about achieving the ultimate in accuracy. Craftsmanship, aesthetics, and tradition are all part of the allure. Because the wheel train of an analog quartz watch is not under constant stress from a wound mainspring, it does not need to be as finely finished, nor does it require painstaking skill and precision in assembly.

Mechanical watches call to our emotional side. They depend on us for their very survival; we give it life and sustenance. The automatic takes its power from our very motions and is a symbiotic organism on our wrists. It feels alive on your wrists. Without the movement of our own bodies, there would not be the energy stored in its barrel for its heart to beat it would die of lack of attention. It is we who feed it and care for it, like our kids.