Swatch’s Gamechanger

Can you think of a swiss made mechanical  for 100 swiss francs? No. Swatch makes it possible with  Swatch Sistem51.

The decade-old brand  launched Swatch Sistem51 at the Baselworld 2013. It’s a fully automated assembly made mechanical movement composed of only 51 components, a 90 hour power reserve and a selling price of no more than 100 Swiss Francs. The movement is an automatic, but in place of the rotor,  it has a transparent disc rotating around a central screw. This allows users to see into the movement and all the intricate details of the 51 components. It offers the advantage of not having to wind the watch every day like an automatic and the ability to see the movement unblocked by a rotor such as in a hand wound watch.

It has 51 components compared to most mechanical watches which have double that number. It’s a great accomplishment indeed.

Interestingly, the material that the movement is made is called ARCAP, an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc with exceptional anti-magnetic qualities. The components are hermetically sealed within the case, preventing moisture of foreign objects from interfering within. The movement itself is 100% assembled by machines. The components are welded together to form an assembly centered around a single screw, and the advanced design of the escapement does away with the need for a regulator. The rate in fact is set in the manufacturing process by a laser, which means manual adjustments are totally unnecessary Top it all off  itcomes with a 90-hour power reserve. What more do you need in life?

Mobile Marvel

With a moving dial, Otturatore gives the illusion that the entire dial changes in the flash of an eye, writes Hiren Kumar Bose

De GRISOGONO has great hopes from Otturatore, a four faced watch with moving dial. Yes, you read it right. The brand feels the watch will demonstrate the Manufacture’s technical savoir faire and allow it to establish its legitimacy and credibility in the world of horology. That’s what DE GRISOGONO CEO Gerald Roden believes.

A timepiece which combines audacity, refinement and modernism, Otturatore’s mobile dial features a sequential display of seconds, date, moon phases and power reserve, with 3 of them always concealed. By a simple manipulation, the sequential mechanism can be displaced by 90° in a few tenths of a millisecond, a speed guaranteed to turn the world of complicated watches upside down. The over-engineered mechanism of the watch can be really amusing and will surely pull in the crowd, if the wearer wants to show off.

A square watch, 45mm wide and about 50mm tall, whether its chunky 18k rose or white gold case, the watch uses a lot of metal. And when the 16mm thick timepiece sits on your wrist, it’s like wearing a rod of gold bullion. But there are many who will be enchanted by the interesting mixture of classic watch style meets angular furniture design concept of the Otturatore.

The wow factor of the moving dial having registered initially, De GRISOGONO’s latest ensures comfort and legibility. There are pushers on the side of the case (similar to chronograph pushers), but they are used to move the dial window around. Under the dial are four complications, but you can only view one at a time.

The watch gives the illusion that the entire dial changes in the flash of an eye. A stealth watch!  In fact, a mechanism moves the dial window that is not powered by the push of your hand directly. The top pusher merely activates a special system that cycles the dial window. The watch has a second mainspring barrel aside from the one for the time. It is wound by “pumping” the lower pusher a number of times. When you then press the top pusher it activates the system that draws power from the second mainspring barrel to move the dial window over a new complication.

Residing in the watch is the novel De GRISOGONO automatic caliber DR 19-89, which features a subsidiary seconds dial, power reserve indicator, moonphase indicator, as well as date. The dial itself is textured and features nicely proportioned dauphine style hands that are in gold to match the case. The dial is available in a few colours as well including silver, ruthenium, black, and brown. Each of these colours is available with the rose of white gold case.

Patented by de GRISOGONO, the Otturatore’s basic feature is a mobile clockwise-rotated dial operated simply by pressing a mechanical pushpiece. The increment of rotation of such a device

depends on the number of complications or indications of the watch; the Ottaratore’s increment of rotation is 90°. While the principle seems simple enough, its design is totally unprecedented: it propels watchmaking technology from the sphere of slow speeds to that of hyper velocities. A true achievement, indeed.

Until now, horological complications focussed mainly on a specific function, usually a matter of actioning a simple sequence of gears or springs. The Otturatore truly embodies another dimension in time. A slight pressure on a pushpiece – whose travel is of the order of one millimeter – is enough to harness enough power to drive the mobile dial by 90° instantly. In a standard mechanical construction, a finger pressing a pushpiece for a brief instant exerts insufficient force to set in motion mechanical components with strong inertial resistance. The Otturatore’s sequential selector can achieve this because it can instantly action the various dynamic functions (controls, connecting and disconnecting operations, mechanical memory, gears and so forth) while taking into account power drain, inertia and friction.

The watch is symmetrical and initially a bit intimidating due to the massive pushers and crown but once it settles on the wrist you don’t notice its presence.

 

 

Hilton Trio

Paris Hilton Timepieces has launched three watches this season

princess

Princess- The Princess watch embodies a girly image and is designed to thrill, with 18 glamorous crystals that shine in the spotlight all along the dial & the unmistakable Paris Hilton P logo with a crown in a sparkling white crystal powder.  Available in silver, gold or rose gold.

hollywood

Hollywood- Large square watch by Paris is a perfect complement to any outfit. The dial features modern dialstopped with crystal powder adds that extra bit of glamour. Even the oversized crystal features a special diamond cut. The shiny leather strap differentiates itself with the Paris’ trademark P & deep embossed stars.  Every girl can be a star with the Hollywood watch. Available in a colour scheme of silver gold and black.

tinkerbell

Tinkerbell- A tribute to Paris’s Chihuahua Tinkerbell, Paris Hitlon watches presents its own super cute addition- the charm bracelet watch. A stylish chain bracelet in stainless steel with meaningful charms bordered by glamorous crystals.

Available at: Mumbai: Watches of Switzerland, Bandra, Shoppers Stop, Juhu Phoenix, Lower Parel

Rejoice F1 fans

TAG Heuer launches two watches to coincide with Formula 1, one each for men and women

TAG Heuer is honouring its longstanding relationship with motor racing with its “Mastering Speed for 150 years” celebrations by launching a very special ‘India Racing Edition’ . This also coincides with the maiden year of Formula One launch in India and therefore, serves a perfect offering for both TAG Heuer and F1 fans.

TAG Heuer India Racing

The TAG Heuer Carrera Tachymeter Chronograph has been chosen for this special edition. This 200 pieces numbered limited edition has been adorned with the logo of ‘Mastering Speed for 150 Years’ with striking India colors – Saffron and Green. The presence of the car shaped logo on the dial adds to the thrill of TAG Heuer fans as well as car racing enthusiasts. The ‘Mastering Speed for 150 Years’ logo has been placed on the dial at 9 ’o clock as well as on the Sapphire Crystal case back. The chronograph hand along with the thread stitching on the leather strap is in India saffron colors, which provides a fresh, enthusiastic appeal and captures the soul of TAG Heuer, which is, innovation, prestige, performance and precision. Price Rs 1, 99,000

TAG Heuer F1 Lady Gold

For the new bride to be, TAG Heuer Formula 1 Lady Gold Ceramic combines the best of both worlds: gold-ceramic; reliable-chic; masculine-feminine. With accents of gold, it’s a truly unique timepiece. The bezel is an exquisite polished gold plated (18K 2N) & ceramic with 84 Wesselton diamonds and the bracelet plated in shimmering gold. The white diamond dial, with 11 to Wesselton diamonds and luminescent markers on polished gold plated minute and hour hands, add an extra edge to this one of a kind timepiece apt for her special day. Price Rs 1, 99,000

Forsey on his inventions

It’s rare that you come across someone wearing watches worth Rs 4 crores. No, they’re not endowed with precious stones, but are exclusively handcrafted, hand-finished, limited number of pieces with several patented mechanisms. When we met up with Stephen Forsey of Greubel Forsey, the Swiss watchmaker extraordinaire, for a chat following the Watch World Awards 2011, held at Greater Noida-based Jaypee Greens Golf & Spa Resort, it was one such unique occasion.

Stephen Forsey

Recipient of the maiden individual Award for fine watch making as well as for the Limited Edition category, Forsey posed for the camera with a Double Tourbillon 30° and Invention Piece 2, both sitting snugly on his wrists.

Greubel Forsey, the Swiss watch making company which brought the skills and expertise of two exceptionally talented individuals to the world of horology in 2004, specialises in designing and manufacturing high-end watches based on the tourbillon mechanism, with only a few tens of units manufactured every year, which are expensively priced. Their latest, Invention Piece 2, features two double tourbillon 30°, making it a quadruple tourbillon.  Each double has one outer tourbillon that rotates at 1 cycle per four minutes, and one inner tourbillon, inclined at a 30° angle, that rotates once per minute. Available both in gold and titanium, it has 11 pieces each.

Double Tourbillon 30 degree

Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey met in the early 1990s at Renaud & Papi, and worked together for many years before launching their eponymous brand. And since then, the duo has not looked back, surprising the world with their eagerly awaited horological marvels which take years to develop and are lapped up by connoisseurs worldwide. In 2006 the Richmont Group bought 20 per cent stake in Greubel Forsey. Forsey speaks at length on the company’s inventions and what watch collectors can look forward to in an interview with Hiren Kumar Bose, Editor, Watch World 

On being the first recipient of an individual Watch World Award for special contribution to fine watch making

It’s very exciting for Greubel Forsey to be in India and to get this prestigious award from the biggest specialist magazine. The award is recognition of our timepieces and people at Greubel Forsey who put in months and years of hard work to make these watches. Awards like these help promote the best in watch making and creates awareness about the latest developments in the field. I’m very delighted to have received the award. Greubel Forsey is difficult to describe: for we are a very small company and can make only 100 timepieces in a year.

On bringing T back into tourbillon

When we go to bed we keep our wrist watches on the side table when it is at rest for nearly 12 years. This affects the performance of the watch. Our watches challenge the tourbillon possibilities and are an attempt to make them more precise. For instance, the Double Tourbillon 30° (DT30°) we presented in 2004 features one carriage which rotates once per minute and is inclined at 30°, inside another carriage which rotates every four minutes. The double tourbillon averages out errors on the balance induced by gravity. Or the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incliné (T24Si), presented in 2006, the tourbillon cage in this watch has a higher angular velocity, resulting in rapidly changing positions. It’s a challenge to put so many tourbillons and still keep the watch reasonably-sized and aesthetically pleasing.

On creating excitement with every creation

(Laughs).Both me and Robert Greubel have put in 25 years into watchmaking. Thanks to the Internet, independent watchmakers like us have been provided with a platform which is open 24/7and lets us interact with buyers and collectors worldwide. Interestingly, people who buy our watches are those who are very much into watches. They discover the intricacies of the watch each day.

Invention Piece 3

On why a Greubel Forsey watch takes years to become a reality

It takes several years to bring an idea through concept and prototype to a finished timepiece. There is a lot of investment that goes into each new mechanism. As these are not available off the shelf, they have to be designed. 98 per cent of our components in the movements, literally hundreds of parts, have to be designed in-house. Our timepieces have between 280 to 690 components in a movement. For instance our very first invention the Double Tourbillon 30°, the two caged, angled cage 30 degrees inside a second cage system took us four and a half years to go through the whole prototype stage to really refining the system. With a mechanical watch you need to have the time to test it, because a watch that works 24 hours a day, seven days a week, and means that you cannot accelerate the tool process. You just have to wait and be patient. Lastly, every watch needs to be hand-finished, which represents many hundreds of hours of work for each movement.

Published in Mint, Sept30, 2011

Only Watch Charity

Breguet’s  Réveil Musical for Only Watch 11

Breguet presents a unique creation, Réveil Musical, at the fourth edition of the world’s first luxury watch charity auction, Only Watch 2011, to be held on September 22, 2011 in the Principality of Monaco. The watch has a patented music box-type mechanism which enables this one-of-a-kind white gold Réveil Musical watch to play an equally unique tune, “Castle in the sky”, either on demand or at a pre-set time. The entirely original dial bearing a child’s hand completes a full rotation to touch the adult hand appearing on the flange.

Under the High Patronage of HSH Prince Albert II, 39 of the most prestigious and/or innovative Swiss watchmakers will auction a one-off model especially created for this unique event, to collect funds for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

The Only Watch 2011 collection will be showcased in Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing, Tokyo, Los Angeles, New York, Milan and Geneva from August 30 to September 17, 2011.

The tour will end in Monaco for a two-day exhibition (Sep. 21/22) at the Monaco Yacht Show, the world leading Superyacht show which co-organises Only Watch with the Monaco Association against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, and with Antiquorum Auctioneers who will also hold hammer.

Victorinox’s Vintage

Victorinox’s Infantry Vintage Mechanical’s tone-on-tone colour block combination is an industry first.

The new Infantry Vintage Mechanical from Victorinox is trimmer in case size from its mechanical predecessors, in keeping with contemporary watch aesthetics. The look is simpler but refined: the tone-on-tone colour block combinations set it apart. The dial presentation has three bold hands and three circles of indicators – 24-hour military markers in the middle, oversized Arabic hours around them, and a 60-minute/second track with 5-second intervals at the dial periphery.

Every surface is satin-finished, with cut and polished angles subtly bringing a shimmering light to the outline. Generous volumes of luminescence – on the minute, hour hands and markers, greatly increase the watch’s night legibility. Anti-glare treatment on the sapphire crystal makes it equally easy to read in direct sunlight.

The standout case coating in an exclusive Black Ice PVD coating is a pollution-free and non-allergenic technology issued from the aeronautic industry. The warm and lustrous depth of the colour is underlined by its soft contrast with a brown dial and matching leather strap. The tone-on-tone color block combination available in black, beige, brown and indigo blue is an industry first.

The 3-hand, stainless steel case, leather strap is Rs. 50,000 approx while 3-hand, stainless steel case with Black Ice PVD treatment, leather strap is Rs. 55,000 approx.

World’s Priciest Watches

Which are the priciest watches in the market? I have been often asked by friends. “Priciest” is a relative term and depends on who is asking. I would categorise watches which are over Rs 1 crore as the priciest. That is numeral one followed by eight zeroes. So here is the list I have prepared of the priciest watches presently available in your city. Well, this list is not exhaustive for many watch brands are not willing to quote their price and they do so only to a prospective client.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Self-winding Tourbillon Rs 1.2cr.

Housed within a case that strongly hints at its innate sturdiness, protected by a sapphire crystal and a solid back secured by eight polished steel screws, a true masterpiece is revealed: the new self-winding Calibre 2897, equipped with a tourbillon and a chronograph. A set of 335 parts on the manually adjusted, corrected, bevelled and decorated surface creates a shimmering play on light and shade. The automatic winding is ensured by a peripheral oscillating weight, while its chronograph is equipped with a column wheel and its tourbillon optimises its rating precision. The Royal Oak Offshore Self-winding Tourbillon displays a sophisticated and powerful design, supported by a combination of black-coloured materials: forged carbon for the case middle, ceramic for the bezel and rubber for the strap. A watch with two faces, the watch is an amazing blend of two worlds.

Parmigiani Bugatti’s Super Sport Rs 1.3cr.

Parmigiani Bugatti Super Sport is taken from Veyron, a car that was outrageousness-squared to begin with. Where regular Veyrons have 1001 horsepower, the Super Sport adds another 200. A driver’s watch, Parmigiani’s Super Sport is physically laid out so the time can be easily read by a driver while his hand is on the steering wheel. The dial is located on the side of a radically-shaped case. The sapphire-covered top of the 18k white gold case provides a window overlooking the groundbreaking power-source beneath. Two of the lugs are articulated to ensure a comfortable fit. Six sapphire crystals satisfy even the most ardent horological voyeurs, providing views of the engine from all sides. In a world of size 6 movements in size 12 cases, the Parmigiani Calibre PF 372 inside the Super Sport is entirely bespoke. At the top of the case, where one might expect to see the time display, we find instead the main plate. The balance and escape wheels are visible in the 6 o’clock position. The power reserve sits at 12 o’clock with a graduated scale representing the movement’s 10 day power reserve. The movement has 10 bridges, and it is made up of 337 components. The movement is entirely fabricated by Parmigiani in-house, and this timepiece enjoys a 10 year warranty. In an homage to the Veyron Super Sport’s exterior finishing, orange hour and minute hands turn above a carbon fiber dial. The Parmigiani Bugatti Super Sport shown here is a numbered limited edition of 30 pieces.

Harry Winston’s Opus 11 Rs 1.3 cr

Denis Giguet, designer of the Opus 11 says that the idea of “how to explode the time” was the genesis for the creation of the Opus 11, the latest in the Harry Winston Opus series of complicated watches. You can see this idea at work when you view the watch in motion. The hours only are shown at the center of the main dial using twenty four plates, while the two small displays on the right side of the watch show the minutes and the motion of the titanium balance wheel.The effect is so hypnotic and enchanting that you feel it should come with an hourly chime so you wont miss the show. Limited edition of 111 watches

Seiko’s Credor Spring Drive Minute Repeater Rs 1.6 cr

Seiko Credor is a pleasing hybrid of mechanical beauty and accurate quartz crystal regulation. The historical complication (function) uses a pusher or sliding mechanism to sound the time back to the listener. Most minute repeaters have chimes mixes with the sounds of running gears. Seiko uses a silencing system to make sure that gear grinding sounds are minimized. Traditional minute repeaters sounds the time first in hours (you count the chimes to measure the hours, 3 chimes means 3 o’clock), then chimes for the quarter hours (15 minute segments), then the minutes. To make the math easier, Seiko has the second set of chimes sound out 10 minute installments. The timepiece itself is in a 42.8mm wide 18 rose gold case with an exposed movement on the front and back. There are double AR coated sapphire crystals and the piece is matched to a crocodile strap. It is manually wound with 72 hours of power reserve (power reserve indicator on dial) and accurate to about 15 seconds a month.

Ulyess Nardin’s Alexander the Great Rs 3.5 cr

Ulyess Nardin’s Alexander the Great is a  super high-end fun novelty watches with a tourbillon and a minute repeater. When the minute repeater is activated, the little characters on the dial come to life and act as though they are striking the bells. So each time you hear a chime for example, one of the little character swings a sword. Miniaturized jaquemarts on the dial of watches l are hand-engraved in gold. What the jaquemarts are going on the dial is fighting. Apparently you are seeing the depiction of one of Alexander the Great’s battles. The watch comes in 18k white or rose gold, and the figures on the dial match that color. On this watch the dial is actually done with diamonds. This dial is man-made and involves a single continuous sheet of diamond crystals. Under the figurines is the tourbillon – all part of the in-house made and very complex caliber UN-78 manually wound movement. There are complex movements, and there are complex movements. Seeing the operation of the watch and then looking through the sapphire caseback window shed a bit of light on this fact. The minute repeater is activated via the slider on the left side of the case. As far as minute repeaters go it is pleasant sounding with good tone. Unlike other minute repeaters with just two gongs, this one has four of them – meaning it can produce more sounds. Having the jaquemarts on the dial “act” out the chimes is the icing on the cake. The watch itself is 44mm wide and has limited edition of 50 pieces in 18k white gold and 50 pieces in 18k rose gold.

TAG’s Monsoon Offer

Timing it with the monsoon TAG Heuer launches water resistant watches and this year they have three watches to offer. Practical yet sophisticated, these exquisite timepieces are a must have this monsoon season!

Carrera Lady Diamond

Bearing resemblance to its masculine equivalent yet set apart by its feminine charms: 13 diamonds on the index, steel bracelet and mother-of-pearl dial. Drawing inspiration from the classic style of Carrera watches, the TAG Heuer Carrera Lady Diamond contains a high precision movement. It is chic and feminine, and comes in dial colour options in white or pink mother of pearl, or black, enhanced by 13 diamonds or elegant baton markers. Simplicity and efficiency are the governing style principles, revisited with the TAG Heuer woman’s superlative elegance and grace. Price: Rs. 1,34,000

Grand CARRERA Calibre 36RS Caliper Chronograph

Winner of the Grand Prix d’Horlorgerie de Geneve, Favourite Sports Watch, the TAG Heuer Grand CARRERA Calibre 36RS Caliper Concept Chronograph is an exceptional timepiece animated by a column-wheel movement based on the famous «El Primero». This timepiece of superlative design is remarkable for being the first Swiss-made mechanical watch capable of measuring and displaying 1/10th second thanks to the rotating scale. The watch is driven by a C.O.S.C.- certified automatic movement that beats at an impressive 36,000 vibrations per hour. This high frequency allows the central seconds hand to advance at 1/10th second intervals – a technological achievement of the highest order. It is made possible by a special information display developed by TAG Heuer: the Caliper Rotating Scale that magnifies the second by ten times, controlled by a stunning red-edged crown at 10.00. Price: Rs. 4,26,000

Aquaracer Calibre S 1/100^th Chronograph

TAG Heuer developed and patented the Calibre S movement, accurate to 1/100^th of a second. It’s what makes this watch revolutionary. For maximum readability, watch and chronograph times are displayed by the hour and minute hands. The semi circular Calibre S counters show 1/10^th and 1/100^th of a second in chronograph mode, or the date in hour mode. The counter at 4:30 indicates 1/100^th-of-a-second and the counter at 7:30shows 1/10^th-of-a-second. In hour mode, the perpetual retrograde date is displayed by the hands of these two counters- until December 31, 2099. Like all Aquaracer editions, the Calibre S 1/100^th carries the essential features of the line. Price: Rs. 1,16,000.

Dior Elegance

Dior VIII 33mm auto

Watch our for numeral VIII in this Dior watch

Dior VIII 33mm Automatic (Bezel set with diamonds) evokes the Haute Couture heritage of the House of Dior based on timeless elegance.  The watch pays tribute to the couturier. Its name, consisting of eight characters, is the lucky number of Dior’s founder. The date of his couture house’s creation was also the 8th of October 1946. The name of his first collection was baptised “en hult”. Dior’s jewellery and timepiece collection is showcased at the Avenue Montaigne and 8 Place VenDome in the VIIIth Arrondissement of Paris. Moreover, 8 is the only number that appears in Roman numerals at 8 ‘o’ clock on these ultra-feminine and classic-shaped wristwatches.

Monsieur Dior’s taste for architecture, graphic lines, Paris and its symbol the Eiffel Tower is reflected in the collection. The ceramic work on the Dior VIII has enabled the creation of a structured pattern, a bracelet made from an arrangement of pyramids, like the Lady Dior bag and its “Cannage” pattern obtained by the work on the leather. Price: Rs. 438,000

 

Available at Delhi: Johnson’s Watch Co, C – 16, Connaught Place, New Delhi – 110001, Ph: 41513121; Johnson watch Company, A-12, South Extension Part 1, New Delhi – 110049, Ph: 24642255; Dior Boutique – Emporio, New Delhi – 110001, Ph: 46005900; Mumbai: Watches of Switzerland: 231, Link Corner Building, Shop no.2, Linking Road, Bandra (W), Mumbai – 40005, Ph: 26402511; Ethos Summit, Unit No. 13, 14, 23, 24 CR2 Mall, Plot 240/240A, Backbay Reclaimation, Block No.3, Nariman Point, Mumbai – 400021, Ph: 66150351; Dior Boutique – Taj Mahal Hotel, Mumbai – 40005, Ph: 67499091; Bangalore: Zimson UB City Mall, Bangalore – 560095, Ph: 40982100; Hyderabad: Meena Jewellers, Hyderabad – 500034, Ph: 23237170; Chennai: The Helvetica, Chennai Express Avenue, No S 02/03, Whites Road, Royapettah, Chennai – 600002, Ph: 43577782