Swatch’s Gamechanger

Can you think of a swiss made mechanical  for 100 swiss francs? No. Swatch makes it possible with  Swatch Sistem51.

The decade-old brand  launched Swatch Sistem51 at the Baselworld 2013. It’s a fully automated assembly made mechanical movement composed of only 51 components, a 90 hour power reserve and a selling price of no more than 100 Swiss Francs. The movement is an automatic, but in place of the rotor,  it has a transparent disc rotating around a central screw. This allows users to see into the movement and all the intricate details of the 51 components. It offers the advantage of not having to wind the watch every day like an automatic and the ability to see the movement unblocked by a rotor such as in a hand wound watch.

It has 51 components compared to most mechanical watches which have double that number. It’s a great accomplishment indeed.

Interestingly, the material that the movement is made is called ARCAP, an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc with exceptional anti-magnetic qualities. The components are hermetically sealed within the case, preventing moisture of foreign objects from interfering within. The movement itself is 100% assembled by machines. The components are welded together to form an assembly centered around a single screw, and the advanced design of the escapement does away with the need for a regulator. The rate in fact is set in the manufacturing process by a laser, which means manual adjustments are totally unnecessary Top it all off  itcomes with a 90-hour power reserve. What more do you need in life?

Forsey on his inventions

It’s rare that you come across someone wearing watches worth Rs 4 crores. No, they’re not endowed with precious stones, but are exclusively handcrafted, hand-finished, limited number of pieces with several patented mechanisms. When we met up with Stephen Forsey of Greubel Forsey, the Swiss watchmaker extraordinaire, for a chat following the Watch World Awards 2011, held at Greater Noida-based Jaypee Greens Golf & Spa Resort, it was one such unique occasion.

Stephen Forsey

Recipient of the maiden individual Award for fine watch making as well as for the Limited Edition category, Forsey posed for the camera with a Double Tourbillon 30° and Invention Piece 2, both sitting snugly on his wrists.

Greubel Forsey, the Swiss watch making company which brought the skills and expertise of two exceptionally talented individuals to the world of horology in 2004, specialises in designing and manufacturing high-end watches based on the tourbillon mechanism, with only a few tens of units manufactured every year, which are expensively priced. Their latest, Invention Piece 2, features two double tourbillon 30°, making it a quadruple tourbillon.  Each double has one outer tourbillon that rotates at 1 cycle per four minutes, and one inner tourbillon, inclined at a 30° angle, that rotates once per minute. Available both in gold and titanium, it has 11 pieces each.

Double Tourbillon 30 degree

Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey met in the early 1990s at Renaud & Papi, and worked together for many years before launching their eponymous brand. And since then, the duo has not looked back, surprising the world with their eagerly awaited horological marvels which take years to develop and are lapped up by connoisseurs worldwide. In 2006 the Richmont Group bought 20 per cent stake in Greubel Forsey. Forsey speaks at length on the company’s inventions and what watch collectors can look forward to in an interview with Hiren Kumar Bose, Editor, Watch World 

On being the first recipient of an individual Watch World Award for special contribution to fine watch making

It’s very exciting for Greubel Forsey to be in India and to get this prestigious award from the biggest specialist magazine. The award is recognition of our timepieces and people at Greubel Forsey who put in months and years of hard work to make these watches. Awards like these help promote the best in watch making and creates awareness about the latest developments in the field. I’m very delighted to have received the award. Greubel Forsey is difficult to describe: for we are a very small company and can make only 100 timepieces in a year.

On bringing T back into tourbillon

When we go to bed we keep our wrist watches on the side table when it is at rest for nearly 12 years. This affects the performance of the watch. Our watches challenge the tourbillon possibilities and are an attempt to make them more precise. For instance, the Double Tourbillon 30° (DT30°) we presented in 2004 features one carriage which rotates once per minute and is inclined at 30°, inside another carriage which rotates every four minutes. The double tourbillon averages out errors on the balance induced by gravity. Or the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incliné (T24Si), presented in 2006, the tourbillon cage in this watch has a higher angular velocity, resulting in rapidly changing positions. It’s a challenge to put so many tourbillons and still keep the watch reasonably-sized and aesthetically pleasing.

On creating excitement with every creation

(Laughs).Both me and Robert Greubel have put in 25 years into watchmaking. Thanks to the Internet, independent watchmakers like us have been provided with a platform which is open 24/7and lets us interact with buyers and collectors worldwide. Interestingly, people who buy our watches are those who are very much into watches. They discover the intricacies of the watch each day.

Invention Piece 3

On why a Greubel Forsey watch takes years to become a reality

It takes several years to bring an idea through concept and prototype to a finished timepiece. There is a lot of investment that goes into each new mechanism. As these are not available off the shelf, they have to be designed. 98 per cent of our components in the movements, literally hundreds of parts, have to be designed in-house. Our timepieces have between 280 to 690 components in a movement. For instance our very first invention the Double Tourbillon 30°, the two caged, angled cage 30 degrees inside a second cage system took us four and a half years to go through the whole prototype stage to really refining the system. With a mechanical watch you need to have the time to test it, because a watch that works 24 hours a day, seven days a week, and means that you cannot accelerate the tool process. You just have to wait and be patient. Lastly, every watch needs to be hand-finished, which represents many hundreds of hours of work for each movement.

Published in Mint, Sept30, 2011

Live on Light

 Titan’s Light powered watches can be charged by any source of light

titan HTSE

Titan’s HTSE (High Tech Self Energized) watches is a collection of self energizing light powered watches which have a unique and unprecedented ability of being charged by any source of light upward of 200 lux power, ranging from sun light to a candle flame. These neo futuristic watches merge style with technology and mark a distinct departure from the customary classic and fashion offerings from Titan. Inspired by the most complex self energizing bodies like space stations & the space crafts, this collection is distinguished by the case contours in anthracite colours and the saucer shaped perforated dials. Loaded with following innovative light powered features like Quick Start Function(starts the watch from absolute dead state in 10-20 secs; Sleep Mode (increased shelf-life of the battery); End of Life (indicating recharge for the battery); Over charge prevention (to avoid the overcharging of the battery) and Time set warning function, this collection is a techno watch aficionado’s dream come true.  Targeted at the young urban male, this collection of 10 choices is priced between Rs. 6,495 – 10,995.

Available at all World of Titan showrooms, select leading multi brand outlets and departmental stores.

Alchron now in watch

Zenith’s El Primero Stratos Flyback  is made of black Alchron, a high tech material used so far only in aeronautical industry

el primero startos flyback

Zenith has launched its El Primero Stratos Flyback, which is made of black Alchron, a high tech material that was specifically developed for the aeronautical industry and for automobile racing, the same is now being used in watch-making. Its magnetic permeability is 50 times lower than that of steel. This material is also especially resistant to corrosion and boasts of very impressive mechanical characteristics.

Before being integrated into the design of the El Primero Stratos, the Alchron was subjected to a battery of tests: its corrosion-resistance was tested in saline mists, tropical climates and artificial perspiration were simulated, and its impact-resistance was tested with a pendulum striker. It goes without saying that the true goal of these tests was to provide the high-precision El Primero caliber with the best high-strength alloy technology available. The watch implements the movement with 36’000 vibrations per hour. It has an automatic column-wheel chronograph with a power reserve indicator.

The watch is available with a steel case and black dial on a black alligator-leather and metal strap; with black Alchron case and black dial on a black alligator-leather strap; with two-tone black Alchron and pink-gold case and black dial on a black alligator-leather strap.

Available at Chennai: Helvetica, Spencer Plaza,T: 28490013, New Delhi: Johnson Watch Co. (C.P.,T: 41513121 – Johnson Watch Co. (South Ex.) T: 24642255, Mumbai: Times of Lord, Kemps Corner T: 23695254, Swiss Paradise Luxury Timepieces Borivali T: 28980507, Mumbai-400092, Kolkata: The Prime, Luxury Watch Boutique, Forum Mall,T: 22837185

Synthetic ceramic watch

Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Automatic Composite

 

panerai

What’s so special about Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Automatic Composite ( 44 mm)?

 

The case and the bridge protecting the winding crown are executed in Panerai Composite^®, the synthetic ceramic, used in haute horlogerie for the first time by Officine Panerai, is created by an electro-chemical process involving the transformation of aluminium.  Though It much lighter than ceramic, Composite is much harder and more resistant than steel, furthermore it is matt and extremely distinctive in appearance.

The large, unadorned brown dial is of a sandwich construction consisting of two superimposed layers containing the Super-LumiNova^® which forms the fluorescent figures and hour markers. High legible even in the dark, the dial is protected by a smoked sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment.

The P.9000 automatic movement, which can be observed through the sapphire crystal case back, is 13 ¾ lignes in diameter and 7.9 mm thick. This calibre has a date function, small seconds at 9 o’clock and a power reserve of three days, achieved by two spring barrels connected in series, with an oscillating rotor which winds the springs in both directions.

Water-resistant to about 300 metres, the watch is supplied with a strap of antiqued brown leather, with a Composite buckle of the same colour. Identified by the reference PAM00386, it is part of the Contemporary collection.

Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Automatic Composite ( 44 mm) will be available  in stores from January.

Omega for Diwali 2010

Omega unveils the New Constellation in the festive season

 

constellation women

The New Omega Constellation’s fashionable designs effortlessly fuse style and technology together. The new range prides itself with the supernova dial design and brings a new variant of style and sophistication into the Omega range. In addition to traditional designs, the new range offers to consumers contemporary yet dressy watches. The women’s line introduces leather straps for the first time in the New Constellation range. 

 

In timeless white: The white Constellation Ladies timepiece with a polished 18 Ct red gold case and a white alligator leather strap is an ideal accessory for any stylish wardrobe. Its dramatic brushed 18 Ct red gold bezel features Roman numerals, are coated with white Super-LumiNova. The silver lacquered dial features a supernova pattern which explodes from the Constellation star. Price: Rs 3, 47,000.

constellation men

Shades of black and grey: Adorned with the 34 full-cut diamonds, a black alligator leather strap and a shaded grey dial makes this striking watch a unique creation. The polished facetted hour and minute hands are coated with white Super-LumiNova, which makes it easy to read in all light conditions.  Price: Rs 5, 29,000.

 

GTE 2011

Geneva Time Exhibition

Geneva Time Exhibition (GTE), the six day long exhibition of 60 watchmaking brands opens in Geneva on January 16, 2011.

Geneva Time Exhibition is pleased to announce the creation of the GTE SUPERWATCH 2011 AWARD, the prize for the independent watch deemed the most distinguished in its conception, avant-gardism and technology.

Reserved exclusively to exhibitors taking part at the GTE, The GTE SUPERWATCH 2011 AWARD will be given to one single watch, after a prestigious and independent jury of six people have judged the nominated watches. Jury members include • Anders Modig (Jury President), editor in Chief Plaza Watch, Elizabeth Doerr, Watch journalist and author, Jean Marc Wiederrecht, independent Watchmaker , Axel Kufus, Professor of Design at Universität der Kunste Berlin , Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi of Seddiqi and Sons, leading  agent/retailer group in the Middle East and Geoffroy Ader, European Head of Watches, Sotheby’s.

 

RJ enters India

titanic dna

Romain Jerome in India

You thought that Swiss watches only had diamonds. How about watches with inaccessible materials like moon dust, parts of the Apollo 11 rocket and bits of spacesuits? Romain Jerome has done it or plans to do it. The Swiss brand now comes with “Titanic DNA” watches, made from steel and coal from the ocean liner that sank on its maiden voyage in 1912, which is now available in India.

Called Titanic-DNA rusted steel T-oxy III Chronograph, this model is equipped with a new movement developed by Concepto for RJ, the “C21RJ21”. This movement discovers variants of slate-gray and black and is equipped with a navy anchor as the oscillating weight. With a diameter of 50mm – 53mm including the screw-in crown – it features articulated horns and push buttons which blend perfectly with the design of Titanic-DNA timepieces, integrating the characteristic transverse paws.

The dial architecture is constructed on different levels, overlaying matt velvet finish for the back, a satin finish for the famous transverse cross and the Roman numeral XII, snailed counters, and numerous variations of black, with texture and hues obtained by vapourising charcoal dust from the wreck itself. The oxidised steel bezel is the result of an extraordinary blend of authentic steel from the wreck lying 3840 meters under the sea, and from the Harland & Wolff shipyard in Belfast, where the Titanic was constructed nearly a century ago.

Interestingly, the design of the small chronograph counters recalls those of steam engines; the hands are inspired by the anchor of the Titanic; and the unbalance takes the shape of a piece from the wheelhouse – a  host of refined finishes that echo the greatest naval achievement of the Belle Epoque. Price: On request

Available at: Jot Impex, T: +91 011 2569 2255 / +91 98102 70199

Swatch Fest Collection 2010

Swatch Group brings you these adoring and exceptional pieces  heralding the festive season

rado true sport

The Rado True Sport, the new sporty piece of this contemporary high-tech collection is in black matt ceramic and accentuated by the sapphire crystal of the dome. The effortless, round curved silhouette of the bracelet and case gives the True Sport a sense of continuity in its form.

The use of luminous directly applied to the dial’s deep matt background gives the indexes and hands energy and life. The Chronograph version features three counters, the date at 4 o’clock, providing precision with style. It is the bright yellow second hand that adds the finishing touch to the timepiece. Price Rs 54,500.

swatch raspberry

Playing with the theme: pink is the colour of the moment, Swatch brings this audacious Irony Diaphane Chrono. The lightweight pink link bracelet is fashioned of anodised aluminium and grips a transparent clear plastic case. A smooth aluminium bezel in a matching shade of pink frames a sun brushed pink dial with a fine white minute ring and 12 white crystals set to indicate all hours. A date window with black numerals on a white ground is positioned midway between 8 and 9 o’clock. Creusé chrono counters and the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock feature pink subdials, white numerals and indexes, and silver hands. A slim silver central chrono seconds hand complements the chrono counters and bold, tie-shaped silver hour and minute hands with superlite highlights mark the time of day. Price: Rs 7400.

jaquet droz eclipse

A real feat of watchmaking,  Jaquet Droz’s The Eclipse not only displays the day, month and year, but also the phases of the Moon which have fascinated astronomers, explorers and artists of all times and every culture. On the dial, a Moon with a smiling face inspired by 19^th century engravings playfully appears and disappears behind a matt black disk that sharply offsets the brilliance of the dial. Evolving day after day, subtly changing with each new dawn, the Moon in all its forms watches over this exceptional timepiece. Within the 43 mm red-gold case, an intensely black Grand Feu enameled dial welcomes 8 stars, inspired as much by the favourite number of the Manufacture as by the symbolism of the star that is so dear to Jaquet Droz. Price on request.

How about a watch that combines the radiance of steel with the warmth of rose gold?Longines has now added a model in rose gold and steel where the alluring sparkle of the diamonds that cover the dial light up the night with a thousand stars. Called PrimaLuna Thousand and One Nights Longines has chosen to add a new light to its Longines PrimaLuna collection by enhancing a watch made of steel and rose gold with a shower of diamonds whose brilliance sets alight the depths of darkness. The dial is covered with 314 VVS Top Wesselton diamonds (0.376 carats) and its bezel is set with 44 VVS Top Wesselton diamonds (0.299 carats), which sparkle like the stars in a clear night sky. Available in three sizes (23 mm, 26.50 mm and 30 mm) it houses either a quartz movement or a self-winding mechanical movement. This collection is fitted with a silvered flinqué dial, a mother-of-pearl dial or a white dial, the Longines PrimaLuna features hands either in blued steel or echoing the warm tones of the rose gold of the case. Longines’ PrimaLuna models are available on a steel and rose gold bracelet or a black alligator strap. In some versions the sleek curves of the case or the delicate surface of the dial is enhanced by a slash of diamonds. Rs 2,23,500.

tissot lovely

An elegant cocktail of sparkle and minimalist measurements, the new Tissot Lovely timepiece will appeal to ladies looking for a watch that confirms their femininity with a stylish signature. A total of 37 Top Wesselton diamonds grace this proudly feminine watch and encircle a smooth round case with a diameter of just 19mm. A sextet of models offers a choice of colour and material combinations to create diverse “haute couture” style looks. Rows of small metal links in silver-coloured or golden PVD coated stainless steel form jewellery-style bracelets to match their respective cases. These are worn loosely around the wrist to emphasise the playful look. Alternatively, a classical leather strap and buckle securely attaches the Tissot Lovely. Dials are either silver-coloured, or come in delicate mother-of-pearl with their glistening effect enhanced by the addition of a single diamond. Price Rs 33k.

hamilton pulsomatic

Hamilton Pulsomatic is a digital timepiece with futuristic design. It has a science-fiction look, combined with elegance expressed by smooth shapes and surfaces. The brushed stainless steel case resembles a Space Age TV screen from the front, while a ridged effect on the sides and crown is strikingly contemporary. A sleek black screen adds another dimension to the high-tech appearance. Wearers of the original Hamilton digital watch in the 1970s included the famous American singer and actor Sammy Davis Junior, the 38^th US president Gerald Ford and the Shah of Iran – the new piece promises to attract innovative individuals with an urge to differentiate themselves from frantic fashionistas.

The LCD on the Hamilton Pulsomatic is powered by an innovative Swiss automatic movement, the H1970. Fully charged the watch has a power reserve lasting 82 days. The robustness demanded by twenty-first century lifestyles is afforded by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and water resistance to a depth of 50 meters. And the ultimate touch of today is a choice of rubber strap as an alternative to a more classical stainless steel bracelet. Price 76,400.

ck post minimal chrono

Inspired by the influential post-minimal art movement, the simplicity of form, the essence of design, ck post-minimal chrono’s quartz movement is housed in an elegantly polished stainless steel black PVD case finished in mineral glass with a circular black dial. Black polished hands with white luminova clearly display hours, minutes, small seconds and chronograph functions. The classic strap is made of rich black leather with a polished stainless steel black PVD buckle. Available in gent chrono size and water resistant up to 30mtrs. Price Rs 26400.

Name calling ‘Time’

aishwariya rai for longines

Tweet: With slogans brands convey the Manufacture’s DNA

Be it any brand. Be it at any price. A watch tells the same time whatever dial it holds. However complicated it is? Yes, a branded and widely promoted/ advertised watch gives the wearer the feeling that s/he wears something what others haven’t been able to lay their hands on. When a timepiece becomes a product and acquires its an identity of its own a need arises to give it a personality.

T-I-M-E. Just four words. W-A-T-C-H. Five words. Interestingly, every watch manufacturer sees the word differently and conveys a message which is unique to its brand. We bring the catchphrases–the brands identify with.

Patek Philippe Begin Your Tradition

Carl F Bucherer For people who do not go with the times

Citizen Making of a Legend

Vacheron Constantin Dedicated to Perfection

Seiko Dedicated to Perfection

Richard Mille A Racing Machine on the Wrist

Hermes An Hermes Watch has time on its side

Chopard Time, incomparably crafted

Tag Heuer What are you made of?

Audemars Piguet The Watch of your life

Breitling Instruments for Professionals

Longines Elegance is an attitude

Breguet Sir Winston Churchill, from 1901, a client of Breguet